If visual cues offer any insight to a wine’s age, structure or intensity, this one was an enigma. Inky and young- and rich-looking, it’s instead an open, fresh, immersive world on the nose. Layers of sarsaparilla, maple bourbon and Herbs de Provence weave through the glass as mountain blueberries and black currant – the cherries on top – come into play. The texture is satin and the fruit is pure, with a cool breath of fresh air that feels alpine in its exuberance. Lifted and concentrated, with equal firmness and elegance, this is a highlight for not only Rim Rock Vineyard but cool-climate California Syrah. Stellar and star-bright in every sense. (Tasted October 2023)

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