Inky at the cork, hazy in the glass, briny on the nose, there’s a tension to this wine that’s still held up after 12 years. Branston chutney, tanned hide and nori aromas point to whole-cluster influence, and the texture is ethereal – showing nice development in bottle with notes of fruit leather. Tight and needing time to open up, this wine offers the deeply herbal lens of stem inclusion in a cool, wet vintage. Yet with a tannic backbone starting to soften, it’s sure to reward the patient. Certainly plenty of time to go here as well. (Tasted October 2023)

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